{"id":1850,"date":"2025-04-24T00:06:32","date_gmt":"2025-04-24T00:06:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.aerowalsh.com\/cr\/?p=1850"},"modified":"2025-04-24T00:06:35","modified_gmt":"2025-04-24T00:06:35","slug":"wed-23rd-april-tono","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/?p=1850","title":{"rendered":"Wed 23rd April &#8211; Tono"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">DW:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In a shock-turn of events Caitlin-chan has apparently had \u201cmaybe one of the best days of the holiday\u201d. For someone claiming to not love Japan, she sure does seem to be having an awful lot of fun.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Tatami mat life is akin to camping swag life. You get a mattress you sort of roll around on and have your belongings strewn around you. Reading is a challenge in both as your arms inevitably get tired no matter how you hold the book.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>I heard about Tono while looking for a spot between Tokyo and the start of our walk. It was described as the home of Japanese folklore and I read a manga of the quintessential <a href=\"https:\/\/drawnandquarterly.com\/press\/life-old-spirits-review-tono-monogatari\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Tono Monogatari<\/a> (sort of like Japan\u2019s Brothers Grimm fairytales). You can see why the stories found themselves in the foggy mountain forests and these stories are the defining part of the local identity to this very day.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The Tono Municipal Museum is apparently Caitlin\u2019s favourite ever museum. This was somewhat due to their high-tech proximity-based audioguide where Caitlin mashed one button and got interesting tidbits.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Caitlin disgraced herself by grabbing a plate from the bar on the Izakaya (sort of like a bistro\/bar combo &#8211; everything in Japan is a hole-in-the-wall vibe and these are no different). I had told her this was not appropriate before she did it, but she did anyway\u2026 She felt suitably humiliated when everyone made a big fuss immediately and the chef showed us a message on Google translate \u201cIf you need any help at all, just let me know?\u201d I had no choice but to order another round of plum-wine sodas to retain our dignity.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.aerowalsh.com\/cr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250422_2156588748358852144625494532-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1865\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250422_2156588748358852144625494532-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250422_2156588748358852144625494532-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250422_2156588748358852144625494532-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250422_2156588748358852144625494532-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250422_2156588748358852144625494532.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">CR: I wake up disgruntled. I am not a fan of tatami mat life. You are always having to get up and down from the floor. If you want to put on your shoes, you have to sit on the floor. If you&#8217;d like to watch tv, you have to sit on the floor. There is no back support so is quite uncomfortable to read or relax before bed. The view was pleasant (pictured) but because you are on the floor you cannot see it. Declan can sense all this turmoil brewing on my side of the futon within moments of waking and simply sings &#8220;Piper, nooo&#8221;, alleging me to be the spoilt White Lotus brat who claims she wants an authentic experience overseas but actually just wants to stay at a five star hotel where everything operates exactly the same as life at home. <br \/>DW: I can smell the discontent in Caitlin in situations like this. I walk into a room and instantly know the triggers and have to pre-emptively start fighting them with a cheery mood.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.aerowalsh.com\/cr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250422_220145672182785500968514961-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1867\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250422_220145672182785500968514961-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250422_220145672182785500968514961-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250422_220145672182785500968514961-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250422_220145672182785500968514961.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">CR: I might have been very uncomfortable during the night but damn this breakfast is cute. Huge benefit of Japanese cuisine is that you get to buy all these cute little plates. The fire in the background is cozy. There are very few other patrons of the ryokan &#8211; possibily two other guests, although there is debate between Declan and I around whether this was the same man and we just can&#8217;t tell middle aged Asian men apart. <br \/>DW: Caitlin has said apparently if she could become a housewife I would get a spread like this every morning. Somehow I doubt it. The breakfast feels nourishing and healthy without being heavy at all. I suspect it takes longer to make than the 2 minutes for my oats.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.aerowalsh.com\/cr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250422_2325012745131723263680768567-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1868\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250422_2325012745131723263680768567-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250422_2325012745131723263680768567-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250422_2325012745131723263680768567-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250422_2325012745131723263680768567.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">CR: Our Ryokan host is very welcoming, in his own polite, at-arms-length Japanese way. His love language is schedules. Upon seeing the weather for today (constant cold misty rain, obviously, it&#8217;s Japanese Blackheath), he decided that renting bikes to explore the area would not be appropriate and instead designed this immaculate schedule for us, bus times included. It cannot be underestimated how critical this schedule was for us to enjoy the day. These buses only run four times a day so if you miss one, you are essentially stuffed. <br \/>DW: His schedule was actually perfect. We had the right amount of time at each location to amble around and poke at things without getting bored or being rushed. This was one of three maps\/schedules he provided us (we had the cultural map, the food map and the schedule map). He checked multiple times that we had this data with us prior to allowing us to depart. It was actually very helpful.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.aerowalsh.com\/cr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0029459122926301465733447017-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1857\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0029459122926301465733447017-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0029459122926301465733447017-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0029459122926301465733447017-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0029459122926301465733447017-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0029459122926301465733447017.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">DW: Furusato village is a period style village that you can walk around. The fact that it was a rainy Wednesday meant the activities were mostly off, but we had free run of the place to ourselves (and the Kappas).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.aerowalsh.com\/cr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0116445023972185831902022211-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1871\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0116445023972185831902022211-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0116445023972185831902022211-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0116445023972185831902022211-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0116445023972185831902022211.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">CR: Declan pokes around inside one of this preserved houses. English information is scarce, so we&#8217;re not too sure how old this house is. Seems old though. They went for a much more minamilst style. I personally would have had a few more bookcases around the joint. <br \/>DW: These houses were all around the 150 year old mark I believe. They all had an L-shape with a stable on the leg of the L that allowed the family to see the horses at all times (they were part of the family).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.aerowalsh.com\/cr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0033416038584482550270213993-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1872\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0033416038584482550270213993-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0033416038584482550270213993-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0033416038584482550270213993-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0033416038584482550270213993.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">CR: While Declan explores I make friends with the locals.<br \/>DW: I&#8217;m not sure where Caitlin-chan was looking for this photo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.aerowalsh.com\/cr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0048534032706221882447353192-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1858\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0048534032706221882447353192-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0048534032706221882447353192-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0048534032706221882447353192-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0048534032706221882447353192-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0048534032706221882447353192.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">DW: Everything spiritual in Japan gets money placed on it: the shrines, the massive straw phalluses and this cheeky kappa near the pond. At this point in the day, I was unlicensed and couldn&#8217;t capture the cheeky devils. I fixed that later in the day thankfully.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.aerowalsh.com\/cr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0119559484725407533767182259-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1873\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0119559484725407533767182259-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0119559484725407533767182259-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0119559484725407533767182259-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0119559484725407533767182259.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">CR: Declan took his old phone to Japan, leaving his perfectly competent Google Pixel 6a in Sydney. I am never clear why he does this. The phone is boarding on useless. My phone is stolen for all computing intensive tasks (such as uploading photos to the blog). The one thing his old phone can do is Google Translate, and boy does Declan go all in on that feature. All day I bear witness to translated signs of either no importance or erroneous, nonsensical English. This one says &#8220;Alert, there is a pool. Be cautious or an unintended accident may occur.&#8221; <br \/>DW: The phone is for opsec reasons and to mitigate against single points of failure where I lose all my 2FA.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.aerowalsh.com\/cr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0123476108131318034551991863-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1874\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0123476108131318034551991863-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0123476108131318034551991863-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0123476108131318034551991863-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0123476108131318034551991863-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0123476108131318034551991863.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">CR: Rice paddies, cherry blossoms, mountains, cloud.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.aerowalsh.com\/cr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0219295844938257672350792083-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1860\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0219295844938257672350792083-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0219295844938257672350792083-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0219295844938257672350792083-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0219295844938257672350792083.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">DW: Having mastered rail transit and constantly pushing my boundaries, I move to buses. The prices are confusing, numerous and constantly increasing. Thankfully, I determine that all the prices are for show only and there is a hard 200 JPY cap. No change is given, but there is a change machine on the bus. The bus comes every 2 hours. We are the only people on the bus. <br \/>CR: Dad, I have witnessed something alarming that I must report. Declan had 500 yen coin. Bus fare was 200 yen each. He did not want to use the change machine (seperate to the payment machine), so he put in the full 500 yen coin to pay for our fare. Both the bus driver and I are astonished about this. Why not keep the 100 Yen (A$1.10)? I am horrified. This is one third of the cost of a gatcha that might not be a hamster.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"498\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.aerowalsh.com\/cr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/screenshot_20250423-1240551170608167271717301-498x1024.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1885\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/screenshot_20250423-1240551170608167271717301-498x1024.png 498w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/screenshot_20250423-1240551170608167271717301-146x300.png 146w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/screenshot_20250423-1240551170608167271717301-768x1579.png 768w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/screenshot_20250423-1240551170608167271717301-747x1536.png 747w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/screenshot_20250423-1240551170608167271717301.png 973w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 498px) 100vw, 498px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">DW: At times it is hard to know if there is a cultural gap or Google translate is having issues. The way this reads it is half-implied that everyone has anal beads. I can no longer look at the people I meet in the street the same way now.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.aerowalsh.com\/cr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0344369695096329471789730001-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1886\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0344369695096329471789730001-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0344369695096329471789730001-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0344369695096329471789730001-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0344369695096329471789730001.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">DW: I admire the regions dedication to the kappa. It is a cute and silly concept, but unifies the area thematically and culturally. The kappa pops up everywhere: storm water drain covers, telling drivers to slow down and in the plastic supports holding up traffic bollards. There is so much sick Kappa swag. I am aware of the hypocrisy, but you can&#8217;t stop me. I warned Caitlin to not waste her swag allowance on Tokyo trinkets. FYI, you catch kappas with cucumbers on fishing poles, but you need a licence to do so (the gift shop sells licences thankfully &#8211; I hurriedly place one on the counter as Caitlin is finalising another purchase of sick merch).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.aerowalsh.com\/cr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0416064671181729919857249606-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1877\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0416064671181729919857249606-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0416064671181729919857249606-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0416064671181729919857249606-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0416064671181729919857249606-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0416064671181729919857249606.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">CR: We have lunch at a tiny fringe villiage called Denshoen. There are cherry blossoms everywhere in the North. I can understand why tourists are excited about them. They are very pretty and ethereal. In Tono there is very little English spoken and no Western people that we have seen. In the fringe villages there is zero English. We have a humourous interaction at lunch where our waitress attempts to mime how to eat a yakimochi filled with miso and melted brown sugar. It&#8217;s surprisingly hard to convey bite and suck through sign language. The bite bit is okay, but it is trickier to illustrate sucking out the contents of a yakimochi.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.aerowalsh.com\/cr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0753373182020566330218072340-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1884\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0753373182020566330218072340-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0753373182020566330218072340-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0753373182020566330218072340-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0753373182020566330218072340-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0753373182020566330218072340.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">DW: Pauline would be having a fit if she saw this many cherry blossoms in real life. I didn\u2019t plan this at all, it just happened to line up with the time of our visit.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.aerowalsh.com\/cr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0800046333886402044073259589-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1883\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0800046333886402044073259589-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0800046333886402044073259589-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0800046333886402044073259589-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0800046333886402044073259589-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0800046333886402044073259589.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">DW: I asked our host about bears in the areas, \u201cbears, have you ever seen any?\u201d and he immediately responded with \u201coh yes, many, all the time\u201d. This filled Caitlin with hope as we trudged around this hill in the afternoon. All we found was one suspect scat, specific type unknown.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.aerowalsh.com\/cr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0900150366973875266453649502-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1878\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0900150366973875266453649502-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0900150366973875266453649502-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0900150366973875266453649502-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_0900150366973875266453649502.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">CR: We hit the town of Tono for a beer crawl, after sitting for an hour or so having coffee. Decondo-san and I constantly marvel at the economics of small eateries in Japan. This was a brewery where we hung out for a while and replied to dad&#8217;s comments on the blog (hopefully all questions adequately answered) and in that hour only two other people came in, ordered some drinks and a small snack and left. In the coffee shop beforehand it was just us ordering coffee and again two other single patrons. For an hour. Being a shop owner means a lot of standing around, as serving customers is not the majority of your day. <br \/>DW: I don\u2019t understand any of the economics of these shops. They can\u2019t be bringing in more than $20 AUD an hour (before you take out costs and labour!) at best and often less.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.aerowalsh.com\/cr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_1028116836632298978707737932-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1880\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_1028116836632298978707737932-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_1028116836632298978707737932-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_1028116836632298978707737932-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/pxl_20250423_1028116836632298978707737932.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">CR: For someone who spent three days prohibiting me taking photos, you&#8217;d be shocked who suddenly wants a million photos once a drink menu is out in front of him. We&#8217;re struggling to remember the exact line Bill Murray is required to play out in his Lost in Translation whisky ad. I love in this clip the Japanese advertorial director has the English translation in subtitles, which does not get included in the actual movie (<a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/XElQLXXyblk?si=CnWh8pQAS8_2Jnyn\">https:\/\/youtu.be\/XElQLXXyblk?si=CnWh8pQAS8_2Jnyn<\/a>).<br \/>DW: These photos are obviously telling a unique and interesting contextual story. Also, I needed to annoy Joe with my positive attitude. This Izakaya was recommended by our host and was great. At the end of the night (after I had recovered our honour from Caitlin\u2019s social \u201cincident\u201d), our host asks (all discussions here are occurring via Google Translate) where we are staying. I tell him and he says he will get someone to drive. Unclear of this situation, we say no, a taxi is OK. He provides us with words to the effect of \u201cI will get you a taxi, OK?\u201d. We accept and chill for a few more mins. His wife then lets us know the taxi is here. Upon initial inspection I am thinking this is some unlicensed taxi as it lacks plates, funny ball on top, etc. I place my confidence in the high-trust society (and the multiple plum-wine sodas I have enjoyed) and we get in. The driver offers us an ice cream, we are confused. I look again. The chef is driving the car. The cogs start turning. I understand and accept my magnum ice cream. We make the trip slowly with the mandatory TV that every Japanese car has on in the background. Every few hundred meters, he sort of pulls over and asks us a question. \u201cWhy are you visiting Tono?\u201d he asks. I tell him. \u201cThat is amazing\u201d he responds. \u201cI love Tono\u201d he says. I tell him we are going to do the coastal hike. \u201cThat is amazing\u201d he responds. We pull up at our hotel and make a feeble attempt to ask if we can pay, it is refused. We depart and enter our hotel bowing to him as we do with our little head bows. At that point I realised I left the umbrellas in the restaurant.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Kappa.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1853,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[18],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1850","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-japan-2025"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1850","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1850"}],"version-history":[{"count":15,"href":"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1850\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1891,"href":"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1850\/revisions\/1891"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/1853"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1850"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1850"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cr.aerowalsh.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1850"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}