The end of our tour is the island of Koh Rong, known affectionately to Cambodians as ‘paradise’.
Modern paradise has cracks in the idyll.
On the island, the water is crystal clear but rubbish strewn. An orgy of stray dogs hunt a bitch in heat, up and down, up and down the beach. A smoky haze sits in the air – burning season, even on the small fields of the island. A Chinese-owned construction site whirs and clangs, introducing a new array of concrete boxes from which to watch the sunrise over the ocean.
Still, the ocean is warm and the sand is a crisp white blanket, soft underfoot.
It’ll look nice in a photo.
The ferry terminal is a few hours away from the town of Kampot. There are 20 minutes of Laos-like roads and this is not well received by the group. I want to shake them and say cooly, “the worst of here is the best of there”. The fast ferry is awash with tourists who’ll return painted lobster-red around their shoulders.The seaside town on the mainland is a ruin of Chinese investment. A money laundering community of confusing empty high rise hotels and ghostly abandoned resorts.Declan would have spent the hour-long ferry crossing over choppy waters with a gaze sternly fixed on the horizon.Fishing boats bump around the island marina, waiting.Two seasons of Survivor were shot on this little island. I reckon the palm frond huts the contestants built would have been more pleasurable than our mildew scented ‘bungalows’, absent of any airconditioning or comfort.Pork rib and basil stir-fry for lunch was surprisingly tasty. In the evening I saw a stray cat licking chicken bits defrosting outside and am thankful I didn’t order the satay skewers. Behind the scenes of Paradise.These three Lizzies waged gang warfare against the horde of random mutts on the hour, only taking a break in the hottest part of the day to pant in the water or mount a Corgi.This group of Cambodians came prepared for their holiday. Unsatisfied with the soft crash of waves filling the cloudless afternoon, they bring down their own sound system and blast Cambodian rap for hours, intermittently having to get up and kick the boom box when it, presumably out of shame, shuts itself off.The only nemesis of mine more powerful than Homestay: Card Games. I’ll spare you the details but there are two nonsensical rules to this game that are boarding on counterintuitive. I make very reasonable, logical suggestions to improve the quality of the game and am told by the owner, a streak of sadness pulling down her voice into a sigh, “it’s okay, we just play it for fun”. I retire to my airless bungalow to avoid getting sucked into the next pointless round.
Thirdly: I don’t think we watched Survivor Cambodia. Will have to check my pile of dusty illegal Canadian burnt DVDs.
Fourthly: I thought the menopausal snoring ladies were my tribe. I have the sweet smelling Good Riddance insect repellent and appreciate the planned toilet breaks but you are right – card games are a deal breaker. I leave these to certain Toowoomba visiting persons. Shame.
Fifthly: You have transmitted food poisoning to dad via the blog. Probable cause not suitable for blog – you will have to discuss over whatsapp.
Sixthly: is that even a word? I know someone with a few thoughts on Chinese ghost resorts.
Seventhly: Three Lizzies are better than one.
Favourite photo: always a sucker for some fishing boats.
Will miss your blog and we miss you 😘
Do you think you will stay in touch with any of your tour group
Based on the cost of the tour have you been happy with the accommodation.
I still have a belief that no one shares that eventually the many thousands of ghost towers will collapse the world economy.
Haha. The cat licked the chicken but I wonder what licked your pork.
The owner of the business where you played your game went home that night and told anyone that would listen for the thousandth time how hard it is to satisfy rich western tourists.
If this is your last blog then congratulations as they have been entertaining and informative. Thanks for making the effort to put them together as there is a very high probability that I will never see any of those destinations.
Very happy that you safely navigated the whole holiday with no serious incidents apart from some extended time spent in bathrooms.
Your first weekend in the blue mountains will be bizarre after 5 weeks in some pretty rugged and poor countries.
Mum: Season 31 and 32. I must admit I don’t specifically remember watching a Cambodian season… Intrepid just mentioned it on the blurb for that island. I’ll have to dig it out when home.
Yes, my ability to forgive people for their sins diminishes significantly when the card games come out.
Very sad for dad. An unfun experience for all around.
The world’s not ready for three Lizzies.
Dad: Highly unlikely I will stay in touch with anyone from the group.
I have been disappointed with the accommodation. It’s not a premium trip but it was consistently poor accommodation – the rooms wouldn’t have cost much more than A$50 a night. I don’t mind some budget, but for three grand there should be a mix.
The ghost towers definitely don’t seem like a sign of a healthy economy.
The card game owner was actually the two other Australian ladies… They brought it in their luggage.
Not quite the last blog – I went right up until the end.
I agree. Blue mountains will seem a world away in comfort and temperature. Gotta get through a week on the trading floor first…
Firstly: spotto
Secondly: you sound like the wise Oracle re roads
Thirdly: I don’t think we watched Survivor Cambodia. Will have to check my pile of dusty illegal Canadian burnt DVDs.
Fourthly: I thought the menopausal snoring ladies were my tribe. I have the sweet smelling Good Riddance insect repellent and appreciate the planned toilet breaks but you are right – card games are a deal breaker. I leave these to certain Toowoomba visiting persons. Shame.
Fifthly: You have transmitted food poisoning to dad via the blog. Probable cause not suitable for blog – you will have to discuss over whatsapp.
Sixthly: is that even a word? I know someone with a few thoughts on Chinese ghost resorts.
Seventhly: Three Lizzies are better than one.
Favourite photo: always a sucker for some fishing boats.
Will miss your blog and we miss you 😘
Do you think you will stay in touch with any of your tour group
Based on the cost of the tour have you been happy with the accommodation.
I still have a belief that no one shares that eventually the many thousands of ghost towers will collapse the world economy.
Haha. The cat licked the chicken but I wonder what licked your pork.
The owner of the business where you played your game went home that night and told anyone that would listen for the thousandth time how hard it is to satisfy rich western tourists.
If this is your last blog then congratulations as they have been entertaining and informative. Thanks for making the effort to put them together as there is a very high probability that I will never see any of those destinations.
Very happy that you safely navigated the whole holiday with no serious incidents apart from some extended time spent in bathrooms.
Your first weekend in the blue mountains will be bizarre after 5 weeks in some pretty rugged and poor countries.
Mum: Season 31 and 32. I must admit I don’t specifically remember watching a Cambodian season… Intrepid just mentioned it on the blurb for that island. I’ll have to dig it out when home.
Yes, my ability to forgive people for their sins diminishes significantly when the card games come out.
Very sad for dad. An unfun experience for all around.
The world’s not ready for three Lizzies.
Dad: Highly unlikely I will stay in touch with anyone from the group.
I have been disappointed with the accommodation. It’s not a premium trip but it was consistently poor accommodation – the rooms wouldn’t have cost much more than A$50 a night. I don’t mind some budget, but for three grand there should be a mix.
The ghost towers definitely don’t seem like a sign of a healthy economy.
The card game owner was actually the two other Australian ladies… They brought it in their luggage.
Not quite the last blog – I went right up until the end.
I agree. Blue mountains will seem a world away in comfort and temperature. Gotta get through a week on the trading floor first…