Mon 16th Feb – Chiang Mai
DW: Cait has had it too easy for too long on this trip. The last time she came to Chiang Mai she went on a “walk” up to a temple and she wanted to do it again. When pressed for details it became clear she had no idea where she had been and in fact, has barely any idea where she currently is. I seized this ambiguity to propose a midday jaunt through the jungle to a hilltop temple.
CR: I say to Declan: not all who wander are lost.
We spent the day around and on the mountain side of Chiang Mai. It’s a really happy day. Mostly relaxing and full of things to see.
After breakfast we get a Songthaew to Chiang Mai university which is just at the base of the mountains. We peek in on a lecture that is presented in Thai but the projected slides are in English. We have a look at the notice boards, where a ruthless competition for SRC Elections is being staged. Game of Thrones, Asia University Campus Edition. There are also so many sweepers of leaves. A tree shedding a leaf on public grounds can only settle for minutes before being raked in a pile to go.. to a Leaf Tip? It reminds me of the old uncles in Vietnam hired by shops purportedly to manage motorcycle parking but is more likely a social security type of government policy.
After a disastrous attempt to order a coffee in Thai at an empty cafe on campus that took three generations of employee to look at us quizzically before attesting they only serve ‘Americano’, we start up the mountain.
The mountain trail is very well established and impossible to get lost. It winds its way up through various temples and a small mountain town. It’s by no means virgin jungle. Power lines that thread their way, often at trip-hazard-waist-level, through the ‘Monk’s Trail’. Water pipes follow the whole track. The ground is cracked and red as though rain hasn’t touched its surface in years. Urban Thailand is all about keeping industry and civilisation moving at a pace where they at least aren’t going backwards. Nature and conservation are at best tourist buzz words.
At a fork just before our intended destination there is a sign that has two images. One is a stick figure man with hiking poles, walking in a what I could only call a conventional manner. The other is a stick figure man clinging to rocks on all fours, with a rope strung next to him at head level. A local, thinking he is being helpful, points in the direction I want to go – conventional two feet on ground back upright stick figure direction – and says “regular temple”. Then, with a little wink, raises his head and points up to the steps cut sharply into the mountain and says, “special temple”. Declan’s eyes narrow. The concept of Free Will has never seemed less credible. We will not be going to the Regular Temple.
CR: Life is better bumping around in a songthaew. To think I am phobic of planes! This thing is a happy death machine.
CR: A close observation reveals a light sheen accumulating in every crevasse of our bodies. This is will build with time and gradient.
CR: In five minutes intervals Declan will wait at the top of an ascent and wait for me to catch up. By the time I get to him he’s got his phone out, working through a multitude of boyfriend tasks such as but not limited to: booking activities for later in the trip, researching how we should be ordering coffee in Thai, and reading a Hacker News thread on LLMs. I’m not sure it’s the type of meditation that the monks had in mind but I think he is happy.
CR: Yes, we are working through our grief for our dying mobile.
CR: I struggled to contain my displeasure for this experience. It’s not as fun as it looks on White Lotus.
Well I could pretend and say what a fascinating day but that just sounds like hell. The only highlight was the Wobby portrait ✨️ they must think Australians love their old cars. The problem with Muay Thai – no hot desperate Russians. Please do something relaxing tomorrow. Favourite photo – regular temple and the photos of you both xx
Did you actually have to get on all fours to get to the special temple.
Is the grab rail on the ceiling the only way you can stay in place in the taxi.
Cait, were you tempted to give up part way through this adventure . It would be more authentic if you also had a photo with James showing his forlorn face and juice box next to you half way up the steep path . Are ticks a thing in Asia.
How do you stay hydrated through the day.
Good to see the hand sanitiser on the cafe table .
Would love to know how the monk’s toilets differ from the regular ones. Maybe they have aircon in theirs.
The regular temple looks abandoned.
Great drawing of the rav. I bet one of the local mechanics could fix wobby for a very reasonable price.
After the beer I’m sure the taxi home must have been a relief.
Do you just have to eat your street food standing somewhere outside
Congratulations. You have just completed more activities in one day than my last 12 months combined
The only thing missing today from the blog was a heat and humidity rating.
We were not quite on all fours but it felt close at times. Thank god those ropes were there!
The grab rail on the songthaew is used a lot. That thing bumps around.
I wasn’t tempted to give up but I did get angry when at the end Declan didn’t want to go back to Regular Temple because he was tired and it would cost double because it counts as two fares down the mountain. Stood my ground and said, “I just climbed for hours! Let me see my choice of temple!”
We haven’t heard from James in more than a year. If you’re reading this James send us a text!
I haven’t heard anything from anyone about ticks. Not sure about this one.
Lots of water throughout the day. And there are some street vendors here and there up the mountain so it’s pretty cheap and easy to get water.
Street food sometimes is a standing up affair, other times there are some very rustic chairs and tables set up.
It was a lot of activities! You’ll have to make up for lost time when you are done with work.
Heat was very strong. I think my whole five weeks will be 35degrees. Humidity not bad up North.
Thanks for all your responses.
Silly Declan about the second temple. How long did it take before he realised that he had made a boo boo.
Make sure you take some photos of good meals.
Last paragraph makes me feel woozy.
I’m with you on the Muay Thai! I find it genuinely hard to watch people fight like that. I can barely keep my eyes open through the gory Game of Thrones Dothraki scenes, so seeing it in real life (less swords… same amount of skin) is a lot. fyg that voice memo sounds exactly like what the yen swaps desk sounds like… funny that
Also, do you guys ever rest??
I loved the bit earlier about “tanned and thin” not being the intention – you’re so clearly not on that kind of holiday.
Tehe the person who said that to me at work 100% is a candidate for White Lotus TV show. Poor guy – he’s just trying to relate to a girl!
The Game of Thrones Muay Thai round we need to see: Khaleesi V. Cici.
I get real pooped on holidays with Declan. I’ve tried to institute afternoon at hotel last few holidays and Dec is roughly following that which helps, especially when it’s really hot.
Caitlin didn’t actually mind the violence of Muay Thai. There were two issues:
1. She was tired. It was a big day of walking and she needed a nap.
2. A Chinese family was directly behind us and the dad and his 8 year old son were yelling at the top of the lungs the whole fight to each other in a vehement discussion. This really annoyed Caitlin. I can only imagine the dad was a master fighter and explaining to his children the rituals of the Muay Thai temple we were observing.
Thank you for that clarification… and i do not blame u Caitlin. What a jam packed holiday its been and so much more to come!
That would have given me a heaadache and made me emotional. Poor george had a few of those experiences in Japan with me
P.s. Im backing my khaleesi