Wed 10th Jan – Reunification Express -> Saigon (HCMC)
Our train came into Saigon around 8.30am and we arrived at our hotel around 9am. Declan has arranged the shuttle transfers via our hotels and they’ve all gone really well. The drivers have never been late, have a little card with our names and the name of the associated hotel so we can identify them and it’s meant we are way less likely to get scammed.
Ho Chi Minh City (I personally prefer the name Saigon) is known as the contemporary, hip sister of Vietnam’s other major city, Hanoi. At least according to Declan’s pirated 2016 Lonely Planet mobile edition. The moment we are off the train Declan is stressing about the complimentary cost increase. The hotel is more expensive and Declan will not shut up about it. Saigon’s reputation for being more cosmopoliton leads me to strategically institute a new rule: each day we have a cultural unit and a luxury unit to spend. Cost of luxury units are meticulously recorded and will be deducted from my bank account upon return to Sydney. The new policy eases Declan’s capitalist fears of spending money and allows him to relax into a more expensive city.
The strategy is instantly put to use when we have two hours to kill at the hotel before the room is ready. The person checking us in suggests breakfast while we wait but coyly does not reveal that it is not included in the room booking (all others have been) and only tells us this and the price after we agree (we didn’t have breakfast on the train). It’s about $30aud each – which is enormous relative to how we’ve been eating in other areas, most meals costing no more than $6aud. Consternation is absorbed by the luxury unit, and using up the luxury unit early in the day has the added benefit that no more luxury can occur. Declan reads his book and orders a lobster omelette.
The cultural unit is cashed in at the Independence Palace (possibly used to be called the Reunification Palace? Having an out of date Lonely Planet guide can introduce doubt). I am very impressed with myself that I remember from high school Modern History why it is significant – this is the final part of the Vietnam War (known as the American war in Vietnam apparently, but I don’t see this phrasing at any museum) where the southern puppet government are stormed and assassinated, and America subsequently retreats. This display is much more coherent than the museums we visited in Hanoi, which had a bunch of things thrown together with very scarce English context given.
The central post office was designed by Gustav Eiffel and looks pretty cool. In a Jesus and the Money Changers in the Temple, a mosaic of Ho Chi Minh looks downs upon vietnamese ladies trying to sell souvenirs and trinkets to westerners coming into this designated cultural site. DWThere was a book street identified in Lonely Planet that sounded promising, but had no English books at all. DW. Small fib by Declan, there was one english second hand stall. In anticipation of such an offering, I was carting around a couple of books I had read and wanted to donate but somehow I failed at doing so. The shopkeeper told me that she couldn’t take my books because it would be unfair when she gives nothing back in return. I really did stress I didn’t want payment, just wanted to lighten my suitcase, but this was not an acceptable motivation and I had to carry the books in my backpack for the rest of the day. CRThis continues Caitlin’s selfie series. This time from the reunification/independence palace balcony looking from the view of the south vietnamese president as the tanks break down the gate. We only get one audio guide and I relay essential and interesting tidbits to Caitlin to maintain her engagement. DW. This audio guide companion is important as I get a bit bored milling about reading the broken English signage. CR.Saigon so far has presented the tastiest street food options. Here I am enjoying fried banana, doused in sweet/salty coconut milk ‘soup’. I am particularly happy with banana based desserts because Declan’s hatred of the yellow fruit means I get the whole dish to myself. CR.This cute dead end street had a delicious pizza place in it (the Amano circle light) and also a crocodile leather shop with an adorable cat. It is also very typical and a good photo if I say so myself. DW. I wanted a crocodile leather belt but Declan did not permit this as an ethical decision or material necessity. CR.This Banh Mi stall is recommended by Luke Nguyen in a 2017 SMH article, so apparently we had to go. It was alright. The Lady rolls out her cart sometime after 4pm and we were there early, so it was touch and go for a bit. DW. While we were waiting we sampled the aforementioned pizza in alley. It took the man about 30 minutes to make the one pizza we shared. He had to boil the potatoes, cut the herbs, stretch the dough, sing along to his tunes. All while the waitress stood still and watched us in her ghostly manner. We were the only customers. Declan was worried that his small business would not scale when customer numbers increase but at least it’s painstakingly handmade with love! CR.Taking photos in ancient garb is the hot past time for women (and some men) aged 20-40. This lady in red braves a Saigon street for a snap, keeping active by dodging motorcycles. A team of two lighting assistants and a professional photographer are employed by each. Declan imagines that Vietnamese tinder is overwrought with these historical fashion fascimiles. Not that he’d know. Purely conjecture. CR.Traffic has been such a big feature of every day in my South East Asian sojourn. At first take, Saigon traffic seems more organised than Hanoi, despite being a more densely populated city. Until you arrive at one of the major intersections. Then it’s back to survival mode and useless prayer. CR.We are confused by this man. We assume he is a hawker of sorts, presumably you pay to have a photo with his two snakes? He’s sort of just playing on his phone though so he gives off the impression that he’s just chilling with them. Either way, we give him and his scaly pals a wide berth. CR.Pretty lights from colonial French buildings. DWThis is possibly my eighth book but I am losing track now. It’s a short story collection released by Ian McEwan in the 1970s. It’s an above average collection, with three standouts (in most collections there’s only one memorable story). For the others: one I disliked, one I was bored by, and the rest are good. Ian McEwan wrote Atonement, which I always assumed was prudish like Pride and Prejudice, so I was surprised to find his plots transgressive. One of the standouts was titled ‘Reflections of a Kept Ape’ and was quite literally that. CR.
I am a big supporter of the luxury unit requirement and love how declan went straight for the lobster omelette. Disappointed you didn’t get the crocodile belt. The payer of the luxury units can buy what they damned well like. Hair looks great!! Can’t believe you are coming to the end love you M xx
I agree with mum, your hair looks on point.
You should have let the book shop give you some nominal amount so they could take your books. I enjoy hearing about how different cultures react in the same situation. I assume in aus they work be happy to take your books for free.
Wonder if the Bahn mi stall even knows about the 2017 article.
Another selection of wonderful photos. The lady in red looked fabulous.
Caught up on about 10 days of blog this morning and I am up to date again.
But that was a problem too at the bookshop – they said they don’t buy books as a policy and therefore couldn’t offer me anything and therefore refused to accept my books. In Australia they would be more than happy just to take the books. The ones I don’t like all that much and don’t want to give to mum or Mimi, I give to Stephen at the secondhand store in blackheath all the time.
The banh mi stall might not know about Luke’s article but it was so busy that it must be on some other famous list. It was unusually busy for a random stall that doesn’t even start at the same time each day.
I am extremely impressed with blog efforts. That’s a blog overdose. Were you reading it for the first time today?
Well that is odd. They sell books but don’t buy books and won’t accept donations. How do they replenish their stock. Maybe it’s just a front for the local crime gang. Was Stephen surprised when you started giving him free books. Does he vet your books or just take them in good faith.
I have been reading them each day but only like to respond when I have spare time. A rushed comment wouldn’t do justice to the excellent source material.
Sometimes Stephen asked if they are any good but usually they aren’t that great, because if they were good I’d save for mum or Mimi. I don’t think he minds because they are usually recent releases that will sell quickly even if not that good. Sometimes he gives me a discount on stock that’s been sitting around for years – he must be happy to have the turnover since I moved there.
I am a big supporter of the luxury unit requirement and love how declan went straight for the lobster omelette. Disappointed you didn’t get the crocodile belt. The payer of the luxury units can buy what they damned well like. Hair looks great!! Can’t believe you are coming to the end love you M xx
I agree with mum, your hair looks on point.
You should have let the book shop give you some nominal amount so they could take your books. I enjoy hearing about how different cultures react in the same situation. I assume in aus they work be happy to take your books for free.
Wonder if the Bahn mi stall even knows about the 2017 article.
Another selection of wonderful photos. The lady in red looked fabulous.
Caught up on about 10 days of blog this morning and I am up to date again.
But that was a problem too at the bookshop – they said they don’t buy books as a policy and therefore couldn’t offer me anything and therefore refused to accept my books. In Australia they would be more than happy just to take the books. The ones I don’t like all that much and don’t want to give to mum or Mimi, I give to Stephen at the secondhand store in blackheath all the time.
The banh mi stall might not know about Luke’s article but it was so busy that it must be on some other famous list. It was unusually busy for a random stall that doesn’t even start at the same time each day.
I am extremely impressed with blog efforts. That’s a blog overdose. Were you reading it for the first time today?
Well that is odd. They sell books but don’t buy books and won’t accept donations. How do they replenish their stock. Maybe it’s just a front for the local crime gang. Was Stephen surprised when you started giving him free books. Does he vet your books or just take them in good faith.
I have been reading them each day but only like to respond when I have spare time. A rushed comment wouldn’t do justice to the excellent source material.
Sometimes Stephen asked if they are any good but usually they aren’t that great, because if they were good I’d save for mum or Mimi. I don’t think he minds because they are usually recent releases that will sell quickly even if not that good. Sometimes he gives me a discount on stock that’s been sitting around for years – he must be happy to have the turnover since I moved there.