Wed 6th Dec – Morning monks in Sukhothai, homestay outside Chiang Mai

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A 5.30am start caused consternation in the group. Clearly, there are no traders in this group, as I am very accustomed to the early alarm. Monks, who to which we were giving offering (swathed in plastic), rise at 4.30am each morning, meditating and praying before taking offerings. This is a daily part of Thai culture (Buddhist), and our guide gives an offering every morning in her day to day life.

A five hour mini van ride took us 40km outside Chiang Mai, where the tour takes us to a homestay. I was obviously going to hate this. Other than the night train, this is the only shared accommodation on the holiday, which absolutely bothers me. I cannot understand adults that share rooms on holidays with strangers. If you haven’t made enough money to purchase your own room, what are you doing travelling overseas? Of course I booked the single supplement. But tonight I have no choice and must seethe through the entire evening with no respite from the group. There were good elements to this evening but I would never want to repeat it.

Homestay is just about an hour outside of the major city of Chiang Mai. It is about a five hour drive from Sukhothai. It is officially northern Thailand.
Thai men get three chances to be a monk, and must do it at least once in their life. There are more than 200 rules that must be abided by.
My offering to the monks. I would have preferred to just watch the Thai people make the offering. To me it is wasteful and garish but watching local people do the offering is very touching, as it clearly spiritual to them, and reinforces a strong sense of community.
Rather unsurprisingly we did not walk back.
Leaving Sukhothai. I like this photo in hindsight because the rice patty fields are being overshadowed by mountains. So far the landscape hasn’t been very mountainous at all. Today that changed. Also of note are the powerlines – each photo that I take sags with power lines, and it will be even more prominent in the cities, I imagine.
A lunch break on the road. Absolutely incredible. One of my favourite meals so far. Not spicy but just incredibly flavoursome. It was bbq pork, with minced pork ontop and a boiled egg and pork crackling and just absolutely the most delicious broth. This page of the menu wasn’t in English, and I only got it because our guide recommend it. The issues I have with the shared accommodation today is actually balanced out with how intensely delicious this lunch is. $4aud.
Anything goes.
After lunch, the scenery completely forgets the rice paddies.
Side of the road is a sticky rice vendor, where the rice is wrapped in banana leaf and sort of steamed over charcol. This is hot work in a hot part of the world.
The finished product, I had banana inside my sticky rice. The Thai people and I both worship elephants and bananas.
At the village I go for a 20min walk by myself. Walking is again very difficult, with no footpath and every type of vehicle driving at every known speed in every space available.
A small cooking class proceeds our dinner.
But it’s all a bit of a rouse and the three other ladies have prepared 95% of the food. There’s no surprise, it’s very good. But I really just want to eat in peace and not constantly around a group of people. The effort it takes to hold a conversation distracts me from the food.
While having dinner we are treated to Thai music from local highschool kids. Unfortunately this is a discordant mess. Again, I just want to eat in peace.
Can you guess what is for dessert?
Warm balls!!!!! This is a truely a dream come true. I am very very excited. It is served with egg. All others are baffled with egg and choose not to have it. I am on the verge of tears.
Every part of me hates this.

Cait

5 Responses

  1. Oh Cait your sharing ordeal deserved an official comment! It made me laugh since your thoughts on the subject have not changed since you were three. Glad the warm balls were there to give you some comfort. I had no idea all Thai men had to be a monk at some stage. Always learning something from your posts. You are an excellent tour guide but I don’t think Dad will let me pay the single supplement if we ever get OS. Much love Mum xx

  2. Ouch, this makes me nervous to share a room with you later in the holiday. I won’t look at the blog until back in Sydney then I think in case you lay into me and I get hurt feelings.

  3. That could be safe Dec, as it is warm in the rooms even with aircon and I don’t want your sweatys self anywhere near me.

  4. Ohh – some of this blog should be kept private. Slightly dubious income comments.

    The bunk room has so many smell and noise possibilities.

    Somehow I think if Caitlin had to spend time in solitary as long as she had a steady supply of books she would be quite relaxed.

    Are the offerings eaten by the monks or thrown away?

    The $4 pork meal looks sublime. That would be $40 in Sydney.

    The feast is yum yum yum

    The music kids remind of a high school band.

    I’m so jealous about the warm balls. Only heathens choose not to add an egg.

    Did you sleep ok in the dorm room?

    What is normal night and day temps.

    Is it super humid every day?

  5. Caitlin I hope the flight was not too stressful.
    Reading this there are definite food highlights.
    With experience of backpacking on my own 100 years ago shared accommodation can introduce interesting people you may not otherwise meet! Glass half full.