Travel time only two hour bus ride but in the bloated world of travel buffers this consumed half the day. I was pleased to be released from KL, a city I found suffocating and structureless. I felt uncomfortable and aimless in KL. The religious aspects of the city bore down heavily on the city and coexisted with the omnipresent shopping malls but left little room for else.
Malacca has a good vibe to it. Canals run through the town and the Portuguese past has meant that these canals are scenically utilised. I am ashamed that the places I have liked the most in Malaysia are those with a strong colonial past and both have also had large Chinese communities. I haven’t learnt anything about muslim Malaysia. I presume the tour company would struggle to assimilate this into its Western ethos. As a result, culturally I’ve discovered very little about Malaysia, which is a disappointment.
At breakfast yesterday I sat across from a Chinese KL local. He recommended this particular Chinese breakfast spot saying that it is also good and cheaper. It is busy and he is right, it is good and cheaper. This food and a Kopi was under $3aud. I am really enjoying how popular breakfast is. Actually on my tour, breakfast is included at the hotels, but it’s the most fun meal to eat out.After breakfast I try a small wander and am struck with an urge to redon the apron.After what is at maximum 20min of walking, I can’t help myself. Another Kopi calls. This stall is set up at the back of a hospital district. Hospital workers and ambulance drivers get their mid morning fix.I am asked if I want Kopi sugar or Kopi milk. I choose the latter, given this is second Kopi in a few hours. I very quickly realise milk refers to condensed milk, which if I am being honest I subliminally knew all along. Kopi is just so delicious and after many years of trialling, hot is my preferred option. It is rich and texture is thick with sweetness. The creamy, nutty aftertaste coats your mouth afterwards. Groups gather old and young over Kopi in the cool of sunbreak or worn with exhaustion at 10pm. It is my favourite drink in the entire world. I am tearing up just thinking of how good it is. An ode to Kopi.Bus station at KL teaming with school holiday travellers. Again, having the tour leader organise tickets is a big plus of being with a group.I am guilty down to my very core.Malacca river. We are given a city introduction tour by trishaw. The tour leader is a man who used to ride the trishaw but is now 80 and too old, so the tour guides like to support him and give him a hobby. His tour is largely personal stories about his time in the British Navy and King Charles features heavily. In one sense, it’s a total waste of time. In another sense, it’s nice and he seems to really enjoy having people to chit chat to.I have a cider and talk to Declan as the sun sets over Malacca. It’s really exciting that he comes to Singapore soon, at 3am on the morning of Christmas Eve. I am looking forward to our luxe hotel and nostalgic walks around north Singapore (where Declan spent three months doing his internship with RR) as fighter jets tear up the sky above. A collection of short stories. I was not very impressed. Tessa Hadley can be brilliant but in many of these stories she fails to transform the mundane domestic settings into the tense tapestry of her finer works. Too many stories are similar, from the perspective of a child or relating to children. The one standout is called Experience and doesn’t feature children at all. The plot revolves around a woman in her late 20s in a transition stage of her life, house sitting for a friend of a friend who is away in the US. Hadley reveals a richness to her protagonist, as well as two supporting characters, that is admirable in a short story. The release of information is innovative and expertly controlled. https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2013/01/21/experience-5
I enjoyed your ode to kopi. Very eloquent but I don’t think it would be the drink for me. And if you don’t have to wait an hour for breakfast coffee is it worth having? 😉 xx
Do any of the other people in your group do the solo walking and eating break outs like you do?
Initially I was confused about the apron photo until I spotted the Jamaica blue sign. Why would anyone choose to eat there when there is so much authentic food and drink everywhere around you. Jb has even closed in Coffs.
Is Kopi a coffee based drink and is it something you used to drink in Sydney.
How many could you drink a day?
Liked your info about the 80 year old. I can’t wait to retire and regale strangers with witty anecdotes from my youth.
The other people are keener to go shopping in the time not spent on pre-organisied activities. With the exception of the crazy Australian, who navigates the city with tourist map from the hotel and no mobile phone.
I was also surprised to see a Jamaica Blue in KL.. I’d like to interview any customers as to why they have chosen that specific cafe in an international South East Asian hub.
Kopi is local coffee in Malaysia and Singapore. According to Wikipedia: The general traditional preparation process for Hainanese-style Kopi involves using a combination of 80% beans, 20% sugar and margarine in the roasting process for a duration of 25 minutes at 180 degrees Celsius.[1] Halfway into the roasting time, salt is added. Sugar is also added at the end to provide a caramelized finish and takeaway any bitter aftertaste.[1] The result is a richer and more fragrant coffee than Western-style coffee.[16
So it’s essentially extremely unhealthy, very strong, and incredibly satisfying and addictive. You cannot get it in Sydney.
I am drinking two a day. I could easily have a third if I was lacking restraint.
Are you thinking of starting a strata based local history of Coffs harbours hotels and apartments?
Is the Australian good or bad crazy?
Love the fact that they use paper maps.
Surprised that you can’t buy kopi in Sydney.
Sounds like a good business opportunity.
I think that by the time you get back you will have to join KA.
Australian was neither good or bad crazy. He looked like he’d done a lot of drugs in his life.
KA is a worthy cause and I voluntarily submit myself.
I enjoyed your ode to kopi. Very eloquent but I don’t think it would be the drink for me. And if you don’t have to wait an hour for breakfast coffee is it worth having? 😉 xx
Do any of the other people in your group do the solo walking and eating break outs like you do?
Initially I was confused about the apron photo until I spotted the Jamaica blue sign. Why would anyone choose to eat there when there is so much authentic food and drink everywhere around you. Jb has even closed in Coffs.
Is Kopi a coffee based drink and is it something you used to drink in Sydney.
How many could you drink a day?
Liked your info about the 80 year old. I can’t wait to retire and regale strangers with witty anecdotes from my youth.
The other people are keener to go shopping in the time not spent on pre-organisied activities. With the exception of the crazy Australian, who navigates the city with tourist map from the hotel and no mobile phone.
I was also surprised to see a Jamaica Blue in KL.. I’d like to interview any customers as to why they have chosen that specific cafe in an international South East Asian hub.
Kopi is local coffee in Malaysia and Singapore. According to Wikipedia: The general traditional preparation process for Hainanese-style Kopi involves using a combination of 80% beans, 20% sugar and margarine in the roasting process for a duration of 25 minutes at 180 degrees Celsius.[1] Halfway into the roasting time, salt is added. Sugar is also added at the end to provide a caramelized finish and takeaway any bitter aftertaste.[1] The result is a richer and more fragrant coffee than Western-style coffee.[16
So it’s essentially extremely unhealthy, very strong, and incredibly satisfying and addictive. You cannot get it in Sydney.
I am drinking two a day. I could easily have a third if I was lacking restraint.
Are you thinking of starting a strata based local history of Coffs harbours hotels and apartments?
Is the Australian good or bad crazy?
Love the fact that they use paper maps.
Surprised that you can’t buy kopi in Sydney.
Sounds like a good business opportunity.
I think that by the time you get back you will have to join KA.
Australian was neither good or bad crazy. He looked like he’d done a lot of drugs in his life.
KA is a worthy cause and I voluntarily submit myself.