Today was spent following the main canal of the city. I first traced the canal down to the sea, then back up through the artsy tourist hub and continuing through to more barren residential areas inland.
Malacca was interesting and approachable. I was wary when our Thai guide described Malacca as hot (it’s all been hot…) and it lived up to its reputation. Without shade from sky rises and with little greenery, the concrete strips of Malacca bake in the sun. The town was filled with older generations still working, with the young generations presumably moving to KL for work. A lot of the buildings are workshops where a withered and weathered man will potter next to a portable fan – a pencil slices neatly down ruler-lined wood at the framers, coffee beans are shuffled into a scale at dry goods warehouse, one man sits next to stacks of trays of eggs and watches Tiktok on full volume. My taxi driver is adamant god will light the way lah, as I hand over 10 ringgit for a 15minute drive ($2.20aud + tip).
Breakfast at the kopitam. I now am comfortable with how the kopitam works in Malaysia. You find an empty table, leave a book on it and take note of the number. Then peruse the food vendor carts that fringe the outside of the kopitam. Select food, quote table number. Do not pay yet. Return to seat. The drinks lady will find you now. Order drink. Receive and pay for drink. Receive and pay for food. Correct change is appreciated so the vendor doesn’t have to return with your change. Do not put backpack on floor, this is seen as disrespectful to money and someone will take your bag and place it on a chair. When finished, if having eaten from multiple vendors, do not place empty plates together, keep seperate as each vendor has their own washing. It’s a lot of rules for breakfastbut it’s worth it.Following the canal from the ocean to the blue dot.Ruler of the canal. I had to donate a chicken to cross.The ocean. On the horizon cargo ships queue for their entry to port.Lively street art in the main tourist area of Malacca.A very delicious lunch. Thick handmade noodles, pork mince, coriander and a side of greens. And hot Kopi. And an excellent little collection of autobiographical essays from William Boyd about his time in a Scottish boarding school. My first time reading him (had never heard of him prior actually). My favourite book I’ve read so far on my holiday.Residential area about an hour’s walk inland of the sea. A quiet walk with no one else around, except for just before lunch when groups of Islamic men appear from nowhere to walk to the mosque for prayers.After a pause at the hotel for a couple of hours, I randomly walk away from town and happen across this huge cemetery. It is larger than Queen’s Park in Randwick. The graves are massive ovals and all seem to be Chinese, given the language on the tombstones. There are a lot of afternoon runners. Afternoon prayers commence and the plangent sounds carry up the hill as the rainy season storm clouds announce themselves above.The inevitable heavy rain breaks while I am opposite a hawker centre, which is fortunate for me. This is not a tourist area at all and is the best dinner I’ve had in Malaysia. Satay is tender and spicy. The dumplings are sweet with prawn meat and satisfyingly crunchy with carrot and water chestnuts. I stay here a bit over an hour and read a book and get a teh-O ice (iced tea without sugar). After dinner I have a buttery, crispy and sweet banana roti. A very, very good dinner to round out a good day.
That sounds like a great walk Cait. Love the description of the little industries. How were the book shops? The satay and dumplings look really good but my money is on those noodles. They looked amazing. Still loving the blog you are doing such a good job. Hope you and Declan have a great time in Singapore. I know its probably a stupid question but I am assuming not much reference to Christmas around you at the moment? Love you M xx
So many questions about the chicken sacrifice .
Are you for real.
Was the chicken dead or alive and is there someone sitting there selling chicken.
You are going to have a major readjustment with food when you come home.
You should be proud of how you have mastered the logistics of language and hawker food stalls.
I assume that you pay cash for all the food and drinks.
The chicken sacrifice was not real but the fact you considered it possible is a testament to how big that lizard was.
That sounds like a great walk Cait. Love the description of the little industries. How were the book shops? The satay and dumplings look really good but my money is on those noodles. They looked amazing. Still loving the blog you are doing such a good job. Hope you and Declan have a great time in Singapore. I know its probably a stupid question but I am assuming not much reference to Christmas around you at the moment? Love you M xx
So many questions about the chicken sacrifice .
Are you for real.
Was the chicken dead or alive and is there someone sitting there selling chicken.
You are going to have a major readjustment with food when you come home.
You should be proud of how you have mastered the logistics of language and hawker food stalls.
I assume that you pay cash for all the food and drinks.
The chicken sacrifice was not real but the fact you considered it possible is a testament to how big that lizard was.
Food is definitely going to be a challenge.
I do pay cash for all food and drinks.